I have to say, I am a huge Fiona Mak fan girl. My favorite city in the world is NYC, I am a foodie, I love fashion and musical theater, all of which has clearly had a large impact on her as well. I knew I wanted to interview Fiona from the second I knew about this project. I love so much wine in Walla Walla, but as far as brands go, I feel the most aligned with SMAK and that has everything to do with how clearly the brand gets its razzle dazzle directly from its owner.
Bailey Steh (BS): Considering your impressive resume and history in the New York restaurant scene, I assume wine has always been your ultimate dream?
Fiona laughs and shakes her head no. She explains that her first love was musical theater, and candidly says she didn’t quite fit the bill and quickly needed to pivot. Within 10 days she moved from London to Syracuse, NY, to start a new school in a city she had never lived in before and choose a major… any major. She talks about how different schooling is in the US vs Europe and Asia. The idea of being able to choose anything, with very little direction all while moving on from a dream, was an overwhelming task. After her first year at Syracuse, Fiona found solace with a group of friends in the Hospitality major and began her impressive career in the restaurant industry.
BS: Tell me, how did you get into wine?
Fiona began her career in the height of the recession in 2008, but her clear drive and work ethic quickly landed her leadership roles with some of the largest restaurant groups in America. After working with a legend like Morimoto, Fiona found herself as the manager of the restaurant Quality Meats, a high-end steak house in Midtown at 23 years old, and so began, or continued rather, her wine journey.
Working on her Somm training catering to the rich and famous of Manhattan, her love for wine eventually brought her to Walla Walla where she completed her degree in Enology & Viticulture. After going through the program and working with mentors she speaks very highly of, she felt a sense of belonging in Walla Walla and decided to make it her home by launching her brand SMAK. And Walla Walla is better for it!
BS: What do you think differentiates and excites you about Washington wine?
Fiona talks about two aspects of Walla Walla wine that she finds special. The people who are willing to help and support our industry, and simply what our terroir can grow. She talks about how special we are because of the combination of our soils and our climate. We can grow such a variety of grapes so well, we aren’t stuck with a few varietals.
BS: Is there someone in the EV world that you admire?
I ask first who Fiona most admires, in the wine world or otherwise, her face lights up, she laughs and immediately says, “Michelle Yeoh! I want to be her!” and I immediately can see the impact Michelle has had on Fiona. They both are the perfect crossover between charismatic, badass, and brilliant.
When I ask her about who specifically in the wine world she admires, again without missing a beat she rattles off a number of characters who have come through the program including her top favorite, JF Pellet of Pepper Bridge. She mentions multiple times during our talk how much she learned from him during her time at the CC and continuing even now.
BS: What is special to you about working in the wine world?
During our interview, Fiona talks about her bond with the SMAK Wine Club Members. She speaks of one member who has become such a dear friend, they even hung out on Fiona’s honeymoon in Vienna where he showed her around to all of his favorite spots. When he visits her Walla Walla tasting room, he calls her beforehand so they can discuss their plans and he can bring the perfect snacks from the west side. She mentions other club members who have requested the tasting room open early to host a lunch, which Fiona was more than happy to accommodate. It’s clear that she intended to create a brand that is elevated relaxation. Her wines are innovative and delicious, the atmosphere of her space is bright and welcoming, and she makes it clear that she wants to know her customer.
BS: How do you foresee climate change or social issues affecting our local industry?
While Fiona and I are chatting about NY, a question I often find myself asking other people in the hospitality industry, I ask if she has any thoughts on the next few years and how they may affect us: “Let’s face it, the next four years are going to be hard on everyone. Getting out there and supporting each other, getting together as a community and being there for each other are the only way we’re getting through this.” A sentiment I know most of us in the service industry share, but always nice to hear nonetheless and she couldn’t be more correct.
BS: What advice can you share with future EV graduates?
At this point, I am completely inspired. Fiona has worked so hard for what she has grown; not only is she successful, but her message is clear, her fans adore her, and it is obvious she absolutely loves what she does. Her advice for us is this: “Don’t let old stereotypes don’t hold you back,” and “Be yourself, surround yourself with people who are going to support you and who you aspire to be.” After this conversation, that seems to be more true than ever.
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