“People still go out of their way to help each other if something breaks down.”

Andy Romo (AR): Can you please update me on some basic information, including your date of graduation from the EV program, current employer and position?
Matt Oakley (MO): Graduated in 2007. Associate Winemaker at Mark Ryan Winery.

AR: How did you get into wine?
MO: After earning a degree in Chemistry, I was pretty burned out and even though I loved it, the thought of working in a lab every day seemed boring. I’d paid for college by cooking in restaurants, so I thought about culinary school for a while. I got lucky with a chef who was willing to teach me French cooking technique, and it was there that I was exposed to the world of wine. We hosted several winemaker dinners at the restaurant, but after an event at DeLille Cellars, I had the opportunity to talk with the winemaker, Chris Upchurch. He wouldn’t remember that moment, but I was convinced to move to Walla Walla and attend the recently formed EV program.

AR: Is there someone in the EV world that you admire, including fellow EV alums?
MO: There are a lot of people that I’ve worked with over the years that I admire and respect. I feel like the class of 2007 produced quite a few successful wine professionals, but I am most proud of my
classmate and friend, Tanya Woodley of SuLei Cellars. What she and her partner, Elaine, have built over the years with limited resources and a ton of hard work and perseverance is really cool. I think they make pretty wines, especially the whites.

AR: What’s special to you about working in the wine industry?
MO: What I love about the wine industry is that everyday is a little different despite the overarching cyclical nature of the process. Harvest, racking, topping, blending, bottling. Repeat. And still, I don’t find it boring. Each harvest is unique with its own challenges and there is always some puzzle to work out in the winery. For me, winemaking is the creativity of cooking guided by an understanding of Chemistry
and Enology.

AR: What is your favorite part of your job?
MO: Harvest and blending trials are my favorite parts of winemaking. I love the energy of harvest. It’s like being in the weeds on a busy Saturday night. I love the thrill of it. Having the confidence in what you’re doing and knowing you have to stay focused and work your tail off to get to the end. I love blending trials because that is when you take all of these ingredients you’ve put so much care and time into and try to find the best way to highlight them. There are so many ways you can go, and it’s an opportunity to put your stylistic touch and expression into the blend.

AR: What are some of the challenges you’ve faced in the industry?
MO: It’s been a challenge finding enough qualified harvest interns for 5-8 years now. There are so many wineries competing for people these days. We’ve successfully filled our rosters in the last few years by dramatically raising our hourly rates and offering housing to out-of-town interns. I think this ties into a bigger challenge for the industry as a whole because we barely pay more than a fast food job for someone who is helping create and handle millions of dollars’ worth of wine. I’ve been lucky to have had a salaried position my entire career. I may have been underpaid some of those years, but it was a steady, reliable income. I’ve seen the wages for cellar workers stay stagnant over the years, and in the past, I’ve had to go to bat for them just to get a small raise. I think we can do better.

AR: What do you think differentiates and excites you about Washington wine?
MO: I love that we successfully grow a wide range of grape varieties because of our diverse local climates. There are some distinct AVAs that I find very exciting and interesting. I enjoy that despite growing significantly over the years, the feeling of camaraderie in the industry hasn’t changed much. People still go out of their way to help each other if something breaks down. We’ve all been there and it’s great when you can pay if forward.

AR: How do you foresee climate change or social issues affecting the local industry in the next few years?
MO: Climate change is a big deal for our industry as it is with agriculture across the board. We are going to have to adapt to hotter summers and less available water. Some growing regions may struggle while new cooler areas with more rainfall could become viable. I don’t know what’s going to happen in the next ten years, but I do know that we can’t take things for granted.

AR: What are some up-and-coming trends in wine that you’re following?
MO: I don’t follow most trends in wine. Pontificating about Pét-nats isn’t really my jam. I’m a 48-year-old Gen Xer trying to figure out why the younger generations are less interested in wine and how we can reach them.

AR: What advice can you share with future EV graduates?
MO: I would say that networking is one of the most valuable things to work on as a student. Full time jobs can be hard to find and there are a lot of people looking for them. Our local wine industry is still relatively small and people know each other. Having good personal references can go a long way. I would also say that many students expect to be assistant winemakers straight out of school. It can happen, but I’ve always believed in gaining experience and working your way up. Getting your foot in the door and working a few years in the cellar always looks good on a resume.